Mendoza-bound tourists should consider bus travel instead of booking a cheap flight, but they shouldn’t be tempted to doze off while making the 7+ hour journey from Santiago, Chile.  Those who remain awake can enjoy a Coles-notes version of Mendoza’s popular Alta Montana tour. The best seat is directly above the bus driver, where a huge picture-window-like windshield gives the lucky front row passengers an unhindered 180-degree view of the upcoming natural, cultural, and economical highlights.

Once out of Santiago’s urban sprawl, the bus rolls through undulating vineyards and fruit orchards before turning east towards the Andes. Parked tractor-trailers begin to line the sides of the road as the route climbs towards the border. When an alpine environment replaces the green trees, the real climbing begins. Thirty-five harrowing switchbacks sway the bus to and fro, leaving guests simultaneously clutching their armrests and snapping photos. Surprisingly, the advertised-as-isolated Portillo ski resort appears on the left. Its iconic yellow hotel towers above the none-stop cargo traffic headed to Chile’s booming port towns. Sadly, remnants of the efficient trans-andino railway, abandoned in 1984, litter the landscape and remind visitors of a narrowly avoided war between these Southern Cone neighbors.

Once through Los Libertadores tunnel, the bus is officially in Argentina and on the Alta Montana tour route. Moments after passing Las Cuevas, a small town with little more than an arch-shaped hostel, Cerro Aconcagua can be spotted on the left. Commonly called the roof of the Americas, the 6962 m summit is actually the planet’s tallest non-Himalayan peak.

After a painstakingly inefficient stop at the Aduana, the bus zooms past Puente del Inca. Unfortunately, this is really as good as it gets. Since 2006, the naturally formed bridge, which once attracted Charles Darwin to the area, has been closed to pedestrians. Unfortunately, a return visit offers the aspiring travel photographer nothing more than a prolonged version of the same view offered from the bus. It’s stunning nevertheless and most return visitors will have little trouble believing the Inca-era legend that these thermal waters held medicinal properties.

Other folkloric and religious traditions are evident from mountain summit to valley floor. Mendoza’s Cristo Redentor monument is located high above Las Cuevas, on the outdated pass to Chile. Difunta Correa and Gauchito Gil monuments litter the roadsides and prompt passing motorists to toot their horns in respect.

Lesser-known sights continue to astound alert passengers during the 200 km descent to Mendoza. Despite a wealth of minerals, which dye the surrounding hills varying shades of green, yellow, red, and orange, local residents continue to oppose mining. They choose, instead, to exploit the beautiful zone through tourism. In winter, thousands of ill-dressed Brazilians can be seen playing in snow at Los Penitentes and Los Piquios ski areas. In summer, cyclists ride the dusty side roads, horseback gauchos lead greenhorns on steep trail rides, and rafters scream through class 3-4 water on the Rio Mendoza above the turquoise-blue waters of Lago Potrerillos.

Finally, the Andean traverse ends as the bus passes YPF’s massive petroleum refinery and re-enters wine country. Wine is easily Mendoza’s largest industry; it’s hard to believe that this renown wine region has only been producing quality wines for two decades. Nicolas Catena sparked the change in 1990 by making the first dedicated attempt to producing quality over quantity. His $15 Catena Cabernet 1990 nearly quadrupled the next-highest priced local wine and its warm reception changed the Mendoza wine industry forever. Today, many of the country’s best wines are made in Agrelo, a small district of Lujan de Cuyo located along Ruta Internacional 7 where Catena’s winery is found. His Mayan temple-inspired bodega isn’t visible from the highway, but neighbors Ruca Malen, Septima, and Melipal are and they each offer their own unique architecture strewn about the area’s seemingly endless vineyards.

Fifteen minutes after passing the wineries, the city unfolds on the horizon. Traffic grows heavy, residential neighborhoods sprout from the ground, and a giant Condor welcomes visitors to Mendoza. The bus trip wasn’t sleep inducing, after all.

• Travel writer Jeff Bartlett offers more than just colorful writing. He regularly combines his travel writing with travel photography. He uses SEO optimized techniques for online material, while producing fresh copy and images for print publications. He can be contacted at jeff@photojbartlett.com for travel writing or travel photography assignments.
  

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